In this blog post and podcast episode, we're delving into a topic that's crucial for any guy looking to up his style game – the common mistakes made when getting your first custom suit. I bring a unique perspective to the table, drawing from two distinct angles.
First, I'll be sharing insights as a former custom clothier. I used to work in the menswear industry, where I had the privilege of guiding numerous first-time custom suit seekers through the process. I know the ins and outs of what works and what doesn't from the professional side of things.
But that's not all. My journey into the world of custom tailoring started when I, too, was in search of my perfect custom suit. When I landed my job, it came with a requirement – I needed to have two custom suits and two custom shirts made.
The logic was simple: to sell the product effectively, I had to wear it confidently. So, I can also speak from the perspective of a guy getting his first custom suit made because I've been there, navigating the process as a customer myself.
Now, let's clarify the playing field. We're primarily focusing on custom suits, not bespoke ones. Bespoke is a level up, and by the time you're investing in that, you've usually honed your style and know precisely what you want.
Custom suits are more accessible, and that's where most men start once they graduate from ready-to-wear. That's precisely why I want to discuss this topic.
Choosing a custom suit is an important decision because, in most cases, you're putting your trust in the hands of the custom clothier. They're the ones taking your measurements and guiding you through the process.
Trust me, I know how overwhelming this can be, having been on both sides of the counter. So, in this episode, we'll dive into the most common pitfalls and how to avoid them, ensuring your first custom suit experience is a resounding success. Let's get started on this style journey together.
Mistake #1
One of the most common blunders guys make when embarking on their journey to get their first custom suit is that they often lack a clear understanding of what they truly want.
They might think they know their style but end up basing their preferences on flawed assumptions.
For instance, someone might replicate a suit they like, only to realize later that it was a poor fit, or the lapels being too thin or the jacket's buttoning point being too high.
This is exactly what happened to me. I had a J. Crew suit in their Ludlow style and thought it was a great suit and
These nuances are often overlooked by first-time buyers who haven't yet grasped the intricacies of suit styles and fits.
The buttoning point of a jacket is a crucial aspect of suit design. If it's too high, it fails to frame the body properly and creates what's called the dreaded triangle – where the shirt is visible between the jacket's buttoning point and the waistband of the trousers when fastened.
This is a detail often missed by those new to custom suits. Additionally, understanding lapel width and the rise of trousers is essential. A thorough grasp of these aspects is fundamental before diving into custom tailoring.
Research is key. Many guys venture into the world of custom suits without adequately understanding the different elements that contribute to a well-fitted, stylish suit. Custom suits are an investment and usually cost more than off-the-rack options.
Therefore, before taking the plunge, it's crucial to research styles, lapel widths, buttoning points, and trouser rises to ensure that your custom suit aligns with your vision of a great suit.
In summary, the first mistake to avoid when getting your first custom suit is not conducting sufficient research to discern what truly makes a good suit.
Mistake #2
A common blunder when acquiring one's first custom suit is selecting a fabric that lacks versatility. The process of choosing from the myriad of fabric options can be overwhelming, often leading to confusion and indecision.
Some individuals, in their eagerness for a one-of-a-kind piece, make the mistake of opting for exotic or extravagant fabrics.
This approach can hinder the decision-making process, leaving clients perplexed about what they truly want. Given the typically higher cost of custom suits, it's prudent to choose fabrics that offer adaptability.
The essence of your inaugural custom suit should revolve around its versatility, as it forms the cornerstone of your wardrobe. While it's tempting to go bold and unique, especially for a one-of-a-kind creation, it's not the most judicious choice for your first custom suit.
Instead, consider timeless shades like navy, charcoal, or medium gray, which can effortlessly transition from one occasion to another. These classic colors provide a solid foundation upon which you can later build a more diverse collection of custom suits.
The key takeaway here is to prioritize the basics for your first custom suit. Even if you already possess similar colors in your ready-to-wear collection, remember that your custom suit should be a step above.
It's a chance to elevate your style and create a piece that not only distinguishes itself but also complements various events.
While unconventional patterns and vibrant colors have their place, they should be explored only after establishing a solid base of classic, versatile suits. Building a wardrobe that balances uniqueness with functionality is the ultimate goal.
Mistake #3
Astonishingly, a significant error many make when purchasing their first custom suit is not paying enough attention to the fit. One would assume that investing in a custom suit is primarily about obtaining an impeccable fit, superior to anything off the rack.
However, for most guys, the allure of a custom suit lies more in the fabric and unique details it offers, relegating fit to a secondary concern. This is problematic because many men lack an understanding of how a suit should properly fit in the first place.
It's crucial to comprehend that fit is paramount in the world of suits, whether custom or ready-to-wear. If you're one of those who don't grasp the nuances of proper fit, you might rely on the expertise of your custom clothier to guide you.
But here's the catch: if you, like me in the past, believed that a tighter suit equated to a better suit, you're likely headed for trouble. This misconception can lead to overly snug custom suits that hinder movement and comfort.
Strangely, in my experience as a custom clothier, many guys didn't seem to care about fit at all. It wasn't that they desired an ultra-snug fit; rather, fit just wasn't a priority in their custom suit journey.
They were more enthralled by the other aspects of customization. This perspective is somewhat counterintuitive because, fundamentally, custom means tailoring the suit to fit your body perfectly.
Yet, a surprising number of men seemed content to leave the fit entirely in the hands of the custom clothier, offering vague preferences like, "I want it to be fitted."
This lack of attention to fit underscores the importance of educating oneself before diving into the world of custom suits.
Mistake #4
Another common pitfall for first-time custom suit buyers is prioritizing the wrong elements. Many men, in my experience, fixate on aspects like fabric, often for the wrong reasons.
Instead of opting for versatile, classic choices, they gravitate towards outlandish patterns and colors. However, the fabric is just one piece of the puzzle.
One surprisingly popular fixation among custom suit enthusiasts is the lining. A significant portion of appointments is often consumed by the meticulous selection of lining patterns, despite the fact that the lining is arguably the least visible part of the suit.
It's a peculiar paradox; people invest considerable time and effort in choosing a component that, in most cases, remains concealed.
Another curious trend is the obsession with contrast stitching, particularly on lapel and sleeve buttonholes. This detail is often perceived as a marker of custom tailoring. Clients pore over the choice of thread color, aiming to make it clear that their suit isn't a ready-to-wear piece.
Looking back, I recognize the tackiness of this trend. I even resorted to wearing a lapel flower to hide the orange contrast lapel buttonhole I'd chosen. These peculiar choices serve as reminders of my own sartorial journey and the valuable lessons I've learned along the way, driving home the importance of personal growth in the world of menswear.
Mistake #5
One of the more curious missteps first-time custom suit buyers often make is insisting on tight measurements with the belief that they'll shed weight before the suit is ready. This notion is a bit of a fallacy.
When you embark on the journey of crafting a custom suit, it's crucial to base your measurements on your current physique. Promising oneself to lose weight in the following six to eight weeks usually doesn't pan out as expected.
In reality, the stress of trying to shed weight can often lead to overeating and, ultimately, weight gain.
Moreover, banking on weight loss and having the suit measured smaller in anticipation can lead to a misfitting final product. Even if the measurements were taken accurately, there's often a price to pay for the adjustments required.
The suit might need to be remade, and this typically comes at an additional cost. It's advisable to schedule your custom suit appointment based on your existing body shape and size.
This might mean waiting a bit longer for the suit, but it ensures a proper fit right from the start.
In essence, the lesson here is not to take chances with your body's fluctuations when investing in a custom suit. If you're planning on losing weight, do so before your appointment rather than after.
The goal is to have a suit that fits you perfectly when it's ready, rather than hoping it will fit in the future and risking disappointment and additional expenses.
Conclusion
In conclusion, purchasing your first custom suit is an exciting endeavor, but it comes with its fair share of potential pitfalls. As highlighted in the podcast, there are several common mistakes that first-time buyers should steer clear of to ensure a rewarding and satisfying experience.
Understanding the importance of fit cannot be overstated. A custom suit's primary advantage is its tailored fit, so prioritizing other aspects like fabric, lining, or decorative details over fit is a common yet critical mistake.
Likewise, the choice of fabric should lean towards versatility, especially for your inaugural custom suit. Classic colors like navy, charcoal, or medium gray are recommended to form a solid foundation for your wardrobe.
Additionally, it's essential to set realistic expectations about weight changes. Relying on losing weight before your suit is ready can lead to ill-fitting garments and additional expenses.
Instead, get measured based on your current physique or wait until after your weight goals are achieved to ensure your custom suit fits flawlessly.
By avoiding these errors and focusing on fit and versatility, your first custom suit will not only be a wardrobe investment but a testament to your sartorial wisdom.
Peace!
